Laying Tile On Raised Floors: How-To (7 Steps)

Ever walked into a room and just felt the potential? Maybe it was the light, the space, or that cool raised floor platform just begging for an upgrade. I get it. I’ve been there, staring at a worn-out floor, dreaming of a stunning tile transformation.

Let me tell you, laying tile on a raised floor isn’t as intimidating as it sounds. With a little prep, the right tools, and my step-by-step guide, you can achieve a professional-looking result that’ll make your space sing. Ready to ditch the old and embrace the new? Let’s dive in!

Step 1: Gather Your Materials and Tools

Think of this as your pre-flight checklist. Having everything on hand before you start is crucial. Trust me, nothing’s more frustrating than getting halfway through a project and realizing you’re missing a key ingredient.

Here’s what you’ll need:

• Tiles: Ceramic, porcelain, or even stone can work, but consider weight. Porcelain is a popular choice for its durability and water resistance. I’ve personally used 12×24 porcelain tiles on a raised floor and loved the result.

• Adhesive (Thin-Set Mortar): This is your tile’s lifeline. Choose one specifically designed for your tile type and subfloor. Epoxy-modified thin-set mortars are often recommended for their superior bond strength and flexibility, which is crucial for raised floors that may experience some movement.

• Grout: Sanded or unsanded, depending on your tile spacing. Sanded grout is best for grout lines wider than 1/8 inch, while unsanded grout is suitable for narrower joints.

• Spacers: These little guys ensure consistent grout lines. I prefer using wedge-shaped spacers for a more uniform look.

• Underlayment (Optional but Recommended): This adds a moisture barrier, cushioning, and helps with sound dampening. More on this in Step 2.

• Tile Cutter (Wet Saw or Snap Cutter): For making those necessary cuts. A wet saw provides cleaner, more precise cuts, especially for porcelain or stone tiles.

• Trowel: The notched trowel is key for applying the adhesive evenly. The notch size depends on the size of your tiles. Check the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations.

• Level: Essential for ensuring a flat, even surface. A 4-foot level is ideal for larger areas.

• Measuring Tape: Because accuracy matters.

• Pencil: For marking your cuts and layout.

• Grout Float: For applying the grout.

• Grout Sponge: For cleaning up excess grout.

• Buckets: For mixing adhesive and grout.

• Safety Glasses and Gloves: Safety first!

Pro Tip: When selecting your tiles, factor in an extra 10-15% for cuts and potential breakage. It’s always better to have too much than not enough.

Step 2: Prepare the Subfloor

Think of your subfloor as the foundation of your tile masterpiece. If it’s not solid, your tiles won’t be either.

• Inspect for Stability: This is HUGE. Walk around the raised floor. Does it feel solid? Any squeaks or wobbles? If you find any issues, address them before moving on. Reinforce any weak spots with additional supports or shims.

• Clean the Subfloor: Sweep, vacuum, and even wipe down the surface. You want a clean, dust-free surface for the adhesive to bond to. I often use a damp cloth with a mild detergent to remove any stubborn dirt or grease.

• Repair Imperfections: Fill any cracks or holes with a cement-based patching compound. Level out any uneven areas with a self-leveling compound. Let these repairs dry completely before proceeding.

• Underlayment (The Game Changer): This is where things get interesting. An underlayment can make a world of difference on a raised floor. It provides a moisture barrier, cushions the tiles, and helps with sound dampening. Cement backer board is a popular choice, providing a stable and durable surface for tile installation. However, lightweight options like Schluter-Ditra are also excellent, especially if you’re concerned about adding too much weight to the raised floor.

  Why Underlayment Matters: Raised floors can be more susceptible to movement and moisture than traditional concrete slabs. An underlayment helps to mitigate these issues, preventing cracks and prolonging the life of your tile installation.

My Experience: I once skipped the underlayment on a small raised platform, and within a year, I had several cracked tiles. Lesson learned!

Step 3: Plan Your Tile Layout

This is where your artistic vision comes to life! Planning your layout beforehand prevents headaches later.

• Find the Center: Measure the length and width of your raised floor. Mark the center point. This is your starting point.

• Dry Layout: Lay out your tiles without adhesive, starting from the center point. Use spacers to maintain consistent grout lines. This allows you to visualize the final look and make adjustments as needed.

• Dealing with Edges and Corners: This is where cuts come into play. Try to minimize cuts by adjusting the layout slightly. If you need to cut tiles, measure carefully and use a tile cutter. For intricate cuts around corners or pipes, a wet saw is your best friend.

• Consider the Focal Point: Think about where you want your eye to be drawn. Do you want a symmetrical layout? A more random pattern? Play around with different arrangements until you find one you love.

Layout Options:

• Grid Pattern: A classic and simple layout, perfect for square or rectangular tiles.

• Diagonal Pattern: Adds visual interest and can make a small space feel larger.

• Herringbone Pattern: A more complex and elegant pattern, often used with rectangular tiles.

Pro Tip: Take photos of your dry layout from different angles. This will be a lifesaver when you start applying the adhesive.

Step 4: Apply Adhesive

Alright, time to get sticky! This step requires focus and attention to detail.

• Choose the Right Adhesive: As I mentioned earlier, select an adhesive specifically designed for your tile type and subfloor. Read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.

• Mix the Adhesive: Follow the instructions on the adhesive bag. Add water gradually while mixing with a drill and mixing paddle. You want a smooth, creamy consistency, like peanut butter.

• Apply the Adhesive: Using your notched trowel, spread the adhesive evenly over a small area, about 2-3 square feet at a time. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle and apply firm, even pressure. The notches in the trowel create ridges in the adhesive, which help to ensure proper bonding.

• Working in Sections: Don’t apply too much adhesive at once. It can dry out before you have a chance to lay the tiles. Work in small sections and clean up any excess adhesive immediately.

Trowel Size Matters: The size of the trowel notches depends on the size of your tiles. A larger tile requires a larger notch to ensure adequate coverage.

Here’s a general guideline:

Always refer to the adhesive manufacturer’s recommendations for the most accurate trowel size.

Step 5: Lay the Tiles

This is where your planning pays off! Take your time and focus on precision.

• Place the Tiles Carefully: Align each tile with your layout marks and gently press it into the adhesive. Use a slight twisting motion to ensure good contact.

• Use Spacers: Insert spacers between the tiles to maintain consistent grout lines. Adjust the tiles as needed to ensure they are perfectly aligned.

• Tapping into Place: Use a rubber mallet to gently tap the tiles into place. This helps to ensure they are fully embedded in the adhesive. Be careful not to hit the tiles too hard, as this can damage them.

• Check for Level and Alignment: Use your level to check the tiles for level and alignment. Make any necessary adjustments before the adhesive sets.

Dealing with Lippage: Lippage refers to unevenness between adjacent tiles. To minimize lippage, use a lippage control system, which consists of clips and wedges that hold the tiles level during the setting process.

My Go-To Tool: I swear by my suction cup lifter for adjusting tiles after they’ve been placed. It prevents smudging the adhesive and keeps my fingers clean.

Step 6: Grout the Tiles

Time to fill those gaps and bring your tile masterpiece to life!

• Let the Adhesive Set: Allow the adhesive to dry completely before grouting. This usually takes 24-48 hours, depending on the adhesive and the ambient temperature.

• Mix the Grout: Follow the instructions on the grout bag. Add water gradually while mixing with a drill and mixing paddle. You want a smooth, creamy consistency, similar to the adhesive.

• Apply the Grout: Using your grout float, spread the grout diagonally across the tile surface, forcing it into the grout lines. Hold the float at a 45-degree angle and apply firm, even pressure.

• Remove Excess Grout: After the grout has had a chance to set up slightly (about 15-30 minutes), use a damp grout sponge to clean the excess grout from the tile surfaces. Rinse the sponge frequently in clean water.

• Final Cleaning: After the grout has fully cured (usually 24-72 hours), use a clean, dry cloth to buff the tile surfaces and remove any remaining grout haze.

Grout Color Matters: The color of your grout can dramatically affect the overall look of your tile installation. A contrasting grout color will highlight the tile pattern, while a matching grout color will create a more seamless look.

Sealing the Deal: Sealing your grout lines is essential to protect them from stains and moisture. Apply a grout sealer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 7: Finishing Touches and Maintenance

You’re almost there! These final steps will ensure your tile floor looks its best for years to come.

• Sealing Grout Lines: As mentioned above, sealing grout lines is crucial for protecting them from stains and moisture. Apply a grout sealer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

• Cleaning and Maintenance: Regular cleaning is essential for keeping your tile floor looking its best. Sweep or vacuum regularly to remove dirt and debris. Mop with a mild detergent and water. Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners, as these can damage the tile and grout.

• Protecting Your Investment: Place rugs or mats in high-traffic areas to protect the tile from wear and tear. Use furniture pads under the legs of chairs and tables to prevent scratches.

My Secret Weapon: I use a microfiber mop with a pH-neutral cleaner for my tile floors. It’s gentle, effective, and leaves no streaks.

Congratulations! You’ve successfully laid tile on your raised floor. Step back, admire your handiwork, and enjoy your beautiful new space!

The Takeaway: Laying tile on a raised floor is a rewarding DIY project that can transform your space. With careful planning, the right tools, and a little bit of elbow grease, you can achieve professional-looking results that will last for years to come. Don’t be afraid to tackle this project – you’ve got this!

Learn more