Toilet Flange Too High? Fix High Tile Floors (2 Steps)

Are you tired of dealing with a wobbly toilet because of a high flange on your newly tiled floor?

I get it. It’s frustrating! You’ve just poured your heart (and probably a good chunk of your wallet) into a beautiful new tile floor, only to find your throne rocking like a boat in a storm.

But don’t despair! I’m here to tell you that you can fix this. As a flooring contractor with years of experience, I’ve seen this issue countless times, and I’m going to walk you through a simple, two-step process to get your toilet sitting pretty.

Section 1: Understanding the Problem

So, what’s the deal with this toilet flange anyway?

Essentially, the toilet flange is a crucial plumbing fitting that connects your toilet to the drainpipe in your floor. It’s usually made of PVC or metal and has slots or holes for bolts that secure the toilet to the floor. Think of it as the unsung hero of your bathroom, quietly doing its job to keep everything… well, contained.

Now, why can this flange end up being too high?

Typically, it happens when you install new flooring, especially tile. The new tile layer raises the floor level, and if the flange wasn’t adjusted accordingly, it ends up sitting too high above the finished floor.

This is especially common in older homes where multiple layers of flooring have been added over the years. It’s like a geological dig site under your feet! The problem is that the flange should ideally be flush with the finished floor or slightly above it.

Consequences, you ask? Let me tell you…

A flange that’s too high can cause a whole host of problems:

• Wobbly Toilet: This is the most obvious symptom. The toilet won’t sit flat on the floor, leading to that annoying rocking motion.

• Potential Leaks: A wobbly toilet puts stress on the wax ring (or waxless alternative), which is responsible for creating a watertight seal between the toilet and the flange. This stress can cause the seal to fail, leading to leaks – and nobody wants that!

• Damaged Wax Seal: The wax seal is designed to compress evenly. A high flange forces it to compress unevenly, potentially causing it to crack or deform.

• Unpleasant Odors: Yep! If the wax ring isn’t sealing properly, sewer gasses can escape into your bathroom. Not exactly the fresh, clean ambiance you’re going for, right?

Section 2: Assessing Your Situation

Okay, so how do you know if you actually have a high flange problem? Don’t just assume! Let’s do a little detective work.

Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Step 1: Measure the Height of the Flange from the Finished Floor.

Grab a ruler or measuring tape. Place it on the finished floor (the top surface of your tile) and measure the distance to the top of the flange.

Step 2: Compare it with the Standard Height Requirements for Toilet Flanges.

The ideal height for a toilet flange is flush with the finished floor, or up to about 1/4 inch above it.

According to the Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC), the flange should be installed so that the closet bowl (toilet) rests firmly on the finished floor. While the UPC doesn’t specify an exact measurement, the 1/4 inch rule is a widely accepted guideline within the plumbing industry.

If your measurement is significantly higher than 1/4 inch, you’ve likely got a high flange situation.

Common Signs of a High Flange Issue:

• Difficulty Securing the Toilet: You struggle to tighten the toilet bolts enough to make the toilet feel stable.

• Visible Space Between the Toilet Base and the Floor: You can see a gap between the bottom of the toilet and the tile.

• Rocking or Wobbling Toilet: Even after tightening the bolts, the toilet still moves.

• Previous Leaks or Water Damage Around the Toilet Base: This is a telltale sign that the wax ring has failed due to improper compression.

My Own Experience:

I once worked on a bathroom remodel where the homeowner had installed beautiful new porcelain tile. The existing flange was about 3/4 of an inch above the new tile! The toilet was practically doing the tango. We had to address the flange issue before we could even think about finishing the installation.

Section 3: Step 1 – Adjusting the Toilet Flange

Alright, let’s get down to business!

This is where we actually fix the problem.

There are a few ways to tackle this, but I’m going to focus on the most common and straightforward method: lowering the existing flange.

Important Note: Before you start, shut off the water supply to the toilet at the shut-off valve behind the toilet. Flush the toilet to remove as much water as possible from the tank and bowl. Use a sponge to soak up any remaining water.

Tools You’ll Need:

• Gloves and Safety Glasses: Safety first!
• Toilet Flange Removal Tool (Optional): These are specialized tools designed to grip and twist the flange for removal. If your flange is stubborn, this can be a lifesaver.
• Reciprocating Saw (Sawzall) or Oscillating Multi-Tool: For cutting the flange (if necessary).
• Hacksaw: For cutting the plastic.
• Putty Knife or Scraper: To remove old sealant or adhesive.
• Level: To ensure the toilet is level during reinstallation.
• New Toilet Bolts and Washers: It’s always a good idea to replace these.
• New Wax Ring (or Waxless Alternative): Again, best to start fresh.
• Caulk (Bathroom-Grade): For sealing around the base of the toilet.

The Process:

1. Remove the Toilet: Carefully disconnect the water supply line. Remove the bolt caps (if any) covering the toilet bolts. Loosen the bolts and gently rock the toilet back and forth to break the wax seal. Lift the toilet straight up and set it aside on some cardboard or a drop cloth to protect your new floor.

2. Inspect the Old Wax Ring: Take a look at the old wax ring. Is it compressed evenly? Is it cracked or deformed? This can give you clues about how the flange was sitting.

3. Remove the Old Wax Ring: Scrape away any remaining wax from the flange and the toilet horn (the outlet on the bottom of the toilet). Make sure both surfaces are clean and smooth.

4. Assess the Flange: Now, take a good look at the flange itself. Is it PVC or metal? How is it attached to the drainpipe? Is it glued, screwed, or both? This will determine how you remove it.

5. Remove the Flange (If Possible and Necessary): This is the trickiest part. If the flange is glued to the drainpipe, you might be able to use a flange removal tool to twist it off. If it’s screwed to the floor, remove the screws.

   Important Note: If you’re dealing with a cast iron flange, or if the flange is severely corroded or damaged, I highly recommend calling a professional plumber. You don’t want to mess with cast iron pipes unless you know what you’re doing.

6. Trim the Flange (If Removal Isn’t Possible): If you can’t remove the flange, you might be able to trim it down using a reciprocating saw or oscillating multi-tool. Be extremely careful not to damage the drainpipe. The goal is to lower the top surface of the flange to be flush with, or slightly above, the finished floor.

7. Reattach the Flange (If Removed): Once you’ve trimmed the flange (or if you were able to remove it and it’s in good condition), reattach it to the drainpipe and the floor. Use new screws or plumbing-grade adhesive, as appropriate. Make sure the flange is securely fastened and level.

8. Consider a Flange Extender (If Needed): In some cases, even after trimming the flange, it might still be too low. In this situation, you can use a flange extender. These are plastic rings that attach to the existing flange to raise it to the correct height.

Safety Measures:

• Always wear gloves and safety glasses to protect your hands and eyes.
• When using power tools, follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
• If you’re not comfortable working with plumbing, don’t hesitate to call a professional.

Section 4: Step 2 – Reinstalling the Toilet

Okay, the flange is adjusted, and now it’s time to put the throne back in its rightful place!

The Process:

1. Clean the Wax Seal Area: Make sure the flange and the toilet horn are clean and free of any debris.

2. Install the New Toilet Bolts: Insert the new toilet bolts into the slots on the flange. Use washers to secure them in place.

3. Install the New Wax Ring (or Waxless Alternative): Place the new wax ring (or waxless seal) on the toilet horn. Make sure it’s centered and seated properly.

   Wax vs. Waxless: Wax rings are the traditional choice, but waxless seals are becoming increasingly popular. They’re more durable and less prone to leaks. I personally prefer waxless seals for their reliability.

4. Position the Toilet: Carefully lift the toilet and align it with the flange. Lower the toilet straight down onto the flange, making sure the bolts line up with the holes in the toilet base.

5. Secure the Toilet: Press down firmly on the toilet to compress the wax ring (or waxless seal). Install the washers and nuts on the toilet bolts. Tighten the nuts evenly, alternating between the two bolts. Don’t overtighten! You want the toilet to be snug, but you don’t want to crack the porcelain.

6. Check for Level: Use a level to make sure the toilet is sitting level. If it’s not, you can use shims to adjust the height.

7. Connect the Water Supply: Reconnect the water supply line to the toilet. Turn the water supply valve back on and check for leaks.

8. Caulk the Base (Optional): Apply a bead of bathroom-grade caulk around the base of the toilet where it meets the floor. This will help prevent water from seeping underneath the toilet and causing mold or mildew.

Troubleshooting Tips:

• Toilet Still Wobbles: If the toilet still wobbles after tightening the bolts, double-check that the flange is level and that the wax ring is properly seated. You might need to use shims to level the toilet.

• Leaks: If you see water leaking around the base of the toilet, the wax ring may not be sealing properly. You’ll need to remove the toilet and replace the wax ring.

• Bolts Too Short: If the toilet bolts are too short to reach the nuts, you can use bolt extenders.

Section 5: Common Mistakes to Avoid

Let’s talk about some common pitfalls that homeowners often encounter when dealing with high toilet flanges, so you can steer clear of them!

• Not Measuring Properly: The most common mistake is not accurately measuring the height of the flange. This can lead to installing the toilet with the same problem still present.

• Using the Wrong Type of Wax Ring: There are different types of wax rings for different situations. Using the wrong type can lead to leaks. For example, if you have a large gap between the flange and the toilet, you might need a wax ring with a horn.

• Overtightening the Toilet Bolts: As I mentioned earlier, overtightening the toilet bolts can crack the porcelain. Tighten them just enough to make the toilet snug and stable.

• Ignoring Existing Plumbing Issues: If you have other plumbing problems, such as a clogged drainpipe, address those issues before you reinstall the toilet.

• Not Calling a Professional When Needed: Don’t be afraid to call a professional plumber if you’re not comfortable working with plumbing, or if you encounter a problem that you can’t handle yourself.

My Pro Tip:

Always double-check that all components are compatible before you start the installation. This includes the toilet, the flange, the wax ring, and the bolts.

Section 6: Conclusion

So, there you have it! Fixing a high toilet flange might seem daunting, but with the right tools, knowledge, and a little bit of patience, you can successfully tackle this project yourself.

Remember, the key is to accurately assess the situation, carefully adjust the flange, and properly reinstall the toilet.

By addressing a high toilet flange correctly, you’ll not only eliminate that annoying wobble, but you’ll also prevent potential leaks and ensure a functional and hygienic bathroom.

Call to Action

Now it’s your turn! Take the plunge and tackle your high toilet flange issues with confidence.

Don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty!

Have you ever dealt with a high toilet flange? What was your experience? Share your tips and tricks in the comments below!

And if you need further assistance, don’t hesitate to reach out to a qualified plumber or contractor.

Good luck, and happy renovating!

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