Engineered Wood Thickness Guide? (1 Size Can Ruin!)
Do you remember that feeling of walking into your grandparent’s house? The scent of old books, the warmth of the fireplace, and the gentle creak of the wooden floors underfoot?
For me, it’s a powerful memory. Those floors weren’t just a surface; they were a part of the home’s story, a silent witness to countless family gatherings and quiet moments.
As a flooring contractor for over 20 years, I’ve learned that the flooring you choose can make or break a space. And when it comes to engineered wood, one of the most popular choices today, thickness matters more than you might think.
Choosing the wrong thickness can lead to a whole host of problems. Warping, noise, premature wear, you name it. Trust me, I’ve seen it all.
That’s why I’m writing this guide. I want to help you navigate the world of engineered wood flooring and choose the right thickness for your home. Let’s dive in!
Section 1: Understanding Engineered Wood
What exactly is engineered wood?
Well, it’s not your grandma’s solid hardwood, and it’s definitely not the click-clack laminate flooring you might remember from the 90s.
Engineered wood is kind of the best of both worlds. It gives you the look and feel of real wood, but with added stability and versatility.
Engineered Wood vs. Solid Wood vs. Laminate
Let’s break it down:
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Solid Wood: This is the real deal – planks milled from a single piece of wood. It’s beautiful, can be refinished multiple times, but it’s also prone to expansion and contraction with changes in humidity. Think old farmhouses with character, but also potential for gaps and squeaks.
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Laminate: This is a synthetic material designed to mimic the look of wood. It’s typically less expensive than engineered wood, but it doesn’t have the same warmth or feel. Plus, once the top layer is damaged, there’s no fixing it.
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Engineered Wood: This is constructed of multiple layers. A thin veneer of real hardwood is glued to a core of plywood, MDF (medium-density fiberboard), or HDF (high-density fiberboard). This construction makes it more stable than solid wood and less prone to warping.
Think of it like a plywood sheet. The layers provide strength and prevent it from bending easily.
The Anatomy of Engineered Wood
The layers are key to engineered wood’s performance:
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Wear Layer: This is the top layer, made of real hardwood. It’s what you see and feel, and its thickness determines how many times the floor can be refinished.
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Core Layer: This provides stability and resistance to moisture. Plywood cores are generally considered the most durable, followed by HDF and then MDF.
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Backing Layer: This is the bottom layer, which provides additional stability and helps prevent warping.
The core construction is a huge factor in the overall performance, I’ve noticed. A poorly constructed core can lead to problems down the road, even if the wear layer is thick.
Why Engineered Wood is So Popular
Engineered wood has exploded in popularity in recent years. Here’s why:
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Stability: It can be installed in areas where solid wood isn’t recommended, like basements or over concrete slabs.
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Versatility: It comes in a wide range of species, colors, and styles to match any decor.
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Cost-Effectiveness: It’s generally less expensive than solid hardwood.
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Ease of Installation: Many engineered wood floors are designed for easy click-lock installation, which can save you money on labor costs.
According to Statista, the global engineered wood flooring market is projected to reach USD 47.9 billion by 2027 (Source: Statista). That’s a lot of flooring!
The Importance of Thickness
So, where does thickness come into play? Well, it affects almost everything about the flooring.
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Durability: Thicker floors are generally more durable and can withstand more wear and tear.
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Sound Insulation: Thicker floors can help reduce noise transmission between floors.
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Moisture Resistance: A thicker core can provide better protection against moisture damage.
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Refinishing Potential: The thickness of the wear layer determines how many times the floor can be sanded and refinished.
In the next section, we’ll dive deeper into the science of thickness and explore the different options available.
Section 2: The Science of Thickness
Okay, let’s get technical for a minute. When we talk about engineered wood thickness, we’re usually referring to the overall thickness of the plank, including the wear layer, core, and backing.
Thickness Options: A Range of Choices
You’ll typically find engineered wood flooring in thicknesses ranging from 3mm to 12mm or even more. Here’s a quick overview:
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3mm – 6mm: These are thinner options, often used for floating floors in apartments or low-traffic areas.
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7mm – 9mm: This is a mid-range thickness that offers a good balance of durability and affordability. It’s a popular choice for living rooms and bedrooms.
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10mm – 12mm+: These are thicker, more durable options that are suitable for high-traffic areas like kitchens, hallways, and commercial spaces.
How Thickness Affects Performance
So, how does thickness translate into real-world performance? Let’s break it down:
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Sound Insulation: Thicker floors provide better sound insulation. The denser the material, the more effectively it absorbs sound waves. This is especially important in apartments or homes with multiple stories. I’ve had clients who were amazed at how much quieter their homes became after installing thicker floors.
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Durability: Thicker wear layers mean more opportunities for sanding and refinishing. A thicker core is also more resistant to dents and scratches. If you have kids or pets, you’ll definitely want to consider a thicker option.
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Moisture Resistance: While engineered wood is generally more moisture-resistant than solid wood, it’s not waterproof. A thicker core, especially one made of plywood or HDF, will provide better protection against moisture damage. I always recommend thicker options for kitchens and bathrooms, where spills are more likely to occur.
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Stability: Thicker planks are generally more stable and less prone to warping or buckling. This is especially important in areas with high humidity or temperature fluctuations.
The Core Construction Factor
Don’t just focus on the overall thickness! The core construction plays a huge role in performance.
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Plywood Core: This is generally considered the best option. Plywood is strong, stable, and resistant to moisture.
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HDF Core: HDF is denser than MDF, making it a good choice for durability.
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MDF Core: MDF is less expensive than plywood or HDF, but it’s also less resistant to moisture.
I’ve seen floors with thick MDF cores fail miserably in humid environments, while floors with thinner plywood cores have held up beautifully.
Installation Considerations
Thickness also affects the installation process.
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Subfloor Preparation: A thicker floor can help compensate for minor imperfections in the subfloor. However, it’s still important to ensure that the subfloor is level and clean before installation.
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Transitions: You’ll need to consider transitions between different types of flooring. A thicker floor may require a higher transition strip.
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Door Clearances: Make sure your doors can still swing freely after the new floor is installed. You may need to trim the bottom of the doors to create enough clearance.
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Weight: Thicker floors are heavier and may require more support.
In the next section, we’ll explore how to choose the right thickness for different areas of your home.
Section 3: Choosing the Right Thickness for Your Space
Okay, so you understand the science of thickness. Now, let’s get practical. How do you choose the right thickness for your specific needs?
Room-by-Room Guide
Here’s a breakdown of recommended thicknesses for different areas of your home:
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Living Room: This is a medium-traffic area, so a 7mm – 9mm floor is usually sufficient. If you have kids or pets, you might want to consider a thicker option for added durability.
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Bedrooms: Similar to living rooms, a 7mm – 9mm floor is generally a good choice. Since bedrooms are typically low-traffic areas, you don’t necessarily need the thickest option.
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Kitchen: This is a high-traffic area that’s prone to spills, so a 10mm – 12mm+ floor is recommended. Look for a floor with a durable wear layer and a moisture-resistant core.
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Bathrooms: Similar to kitchens, bathrooms require a thicker, more moisture-resistant floor. A 10mm – 12mm+ floor with a plywood or HDF core is a good choice.
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Basements: Basements are often damp, so a thicker floor with a moisture-resistant core is essential. A 10mm – 12mm+ floor with a plywood core is a good option.
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Hallways: Hallways are high-traffic areas, so a 10mm – 12mm+ floor is recommended.
The Subfloor Factor
The type and condition of your subfloor also play a role in determining the required thickness.
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Concrete Slab: If you’re installing over a concrete slab, you’ll want a thicker floor to provide insulation and cushioning. A 10mm – 12mm+ floor is a good choice.
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Plywood Subfloor: If you’re installing over a plywood subfloor, you have more flexibility. A 7mm – 9mm floor may be sufficient, depending on the condition of the subfloor.
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Uneven Subfloor: If your subfloor is uneven, a thicker floor can help compensate for minor imperfections. However, it’s still important to level the subfloor as much as possible before installation.
Foot Traffic and Usage Patterns
Consider how much foot traffic the area will receive. A busy household with kids and pets will require a thicker, more durable floor than a quiet apartment with a single occupant.
Think about how you use the space. Do you entertain frequently? Do you have pets that scratch or shed? Do you have kids who are prone to spills? All of these factors will influence your choice of thickness.
Examples of Thicknesses in Action
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Apartment Renovation: I recently worked on an apartment renovation where the client wanted to install engineered wood flooring in the living room and bedrooms. We opted for a 7mm floor with a click-lock installation system. It was affordable, easy to install, and provided enough durability for the low-traffic environment.
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Kitchen Remodel: I also worked on a kitchen remodel where the client wanted a durable, water-resistant floor. We chose a 12mm floor with a plywood core and a thick wear layer. It was more expensive than the 7mm option, but it provided the peace of mind the client was looking for.
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Basement Finishing: Another project involved finishing a basement. Due to potential moisture issues, we installed a 12mm engineered wood floor with a waterproof core. This ensured the longevity and stability of the flooring in a challenging environment.
Choosing the right thickness is a balancing act. You need to consider your budget, your lifestyle, and the specific requirements of each room.
In the next section, we’ll explore the consequences of choosing the wrong thickness. Trust me, it’s a mistake you don’t want to make!
Section 4: The Consequences of Choosing the Wrong Thickness
Okay, let’s talk about the dark side of flooring. What happens when you choose the wrong thickness for your engineered wood floors?
Unfortunately, I’ve seen it happen all too often. Homeowners try to save a few bucks by going with a thinner, less expensive option, only to regret it later.
Real-Life Horror Stories
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Warping and Buckling: I had a client who installed a thin (5mm) engineered wood floor in their kitchen. Within a few months, the floor started to warp and buckle due to moisture exposure. They had to rip it all out and replace it with a thicker, more water-resistant option.
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Excessive Noise: Another client installed a thin floor in their upstairs apartment. The neighbors below complained about the noise, especially when the kids were running around. They ended up having to install additional soundproofing to mitigate the problem.
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Premature Wear: I’ve seen countless floors with thin wear layers that wear out quickly, especially in high-traffic areas. The finish starts to fade, and the floor becomes scratched and dull.
The Financial Fallout
Replacing a floor is expensive. Not only do you have to pay for the new flooring, but you also have to pay for labor to remove the old floor and install the new one.
According to HomeAdvisor, the average cost to install engineered wood flooring is between $4 and $9 per square foot (Source: HomeAdvisor). If you have to replace a floor because you chose the wrong thickness, you’re essentially paying twice.
And that doesn’t even include the cost of repairing any damage to the subfloor or dealing with potential moisture problems.
Case Studies: Lessons Learned
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The Condo Catastrophe: A condo owner chose a 6mm engineered wood for the entire unit to save money. Within a year, the hallway, a high- traffic area, showed significant wear. The wear layer was so thin that refinishing wasn’t an option. The owner ended up replacing just the hallway with a thicker option, creating an unpleasant visual transition.
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The Basement Blunder: A family installed an inexpensive 7mm engineered wood in their basement. After a minor flood, the floor warped significantly. The thin core couldn’t withstand the moisture, leading to a complete floor replacement and added costs for moisture remediation.
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The Kitchen Calamity: A homeowner chose a stylish but thin (5mm) engineered wood for their kitchen. Despite being diligent about cleaning spills, the floor suffered water damage around the sink and dishwasher areas. The thin planks absorbed moisture, causing swelling and warping.
One Size Does Not Fit All
The moral of the story? One size does not fit all when it comes to engineered wood flooring. Choosing the wrong thickness can lead to a whole host of problems, from warping and noise to premature wear and financial headaches.
It’s worth investing in the right thickness for your specific needs. Trust me, you’ll save money in the long run.
In the next section, we’ll discuss how thickness impacts maintenance and longevity.
Section 5: Maintenance and Longevity
Okay, you’ve chosen the right thickness for your engineered wood floors. Now, how do you keep them looking beautiful for years to come?
Thickness and Maintenance
Thickness does impact maintenance routines. Thicker floors with durable wear layers can withstand more aggressive cleaning methods. Thinner floors, on the other hand, require a gentler touch.
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Cleaning Methods: For thicker floors, you can use a damp mop with a mild cleaning solution. For thinner floors, you’ll want to use a dry mop or a lightly dampened cloth. Avoid using excessive water, as it can seep into the seams and damage the core.
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Protective Measures: Use rugs and mats in high-traffic areas to protect the floor from scratches and wear. Place felt pads under furniture legs to prevent dents.
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Refinishing: The ability to refinish your engineered wood floor depends on the thickness of the wear layer. Thicker wear layers can be sanded and refinished multiple times, while thinner wear layers may not be refinishable at all.
Thickness and Lifespan
The lifespan of your engineered wood floor is also affected by thickness. Thicker floors with durable wear layers and moisture-resistant cores will generally last longer than thinner floors with less robust construction.
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Wear Layers: The wear layer is the key to longevity. A thicker wear layer can withstand more wear and tear, and it can be refinished multiple times to restore its original beauty.
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Core Construction: A moisture-resistant core is essential for preventing warping and buckling. Plywood and HDF cores are generally more durable than MDF cores.
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Environmental Factors: Exposure to sunlight, humidity, and temperature fluctuations can also affect the lifespan of your engineered wood floor.
Tips for Maintaining Engineered Wood by Thickness
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3mm – 6mm: Sweep or vacuum regularly. Use a dry mop or a lightly dampened cloth for cleaning. Avoid using excessive water.
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7mm – 9mm: Sweep or vacuum regularly. Use a damp mop with a mild cleaning solution. Place rugs and mats in high-traffic areas.
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10mm – 12mm+: Sweep or vacuum regularly. Use a damp mop with a mild cleaning solution. Consider refinishing the floor every 5-10 years to restore its original beauty.
The Refinishing Factor
One of the great advantages of engineered wood, especially those with thicker wear layers, is the ability to refinish them.
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Extending the Life: Refinishing can breathe new life into tired-looking floors. A professional can sand down the old finish and apply a new coat of stain and sealant, making the floor look brand new.
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Cost-Effective: Refinishing is typically much less expensive than replacing the entire floor.
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Professional Assessment: Before attempting to refinish, consult with a flooring professional to determine if your floor is suitable for refinishing and how many times it can be done.
Long-Term Care: A Worthwhile Investment
Maintaining your engineered wood floors is an investment in the long-term beauty and value of your home. By choosing the right thickness and following proper maintenance routines, you can ensure that your floors will last for decades to come.
And who knows, maybe one day your grandchildren will walk into your home and be greeted by the same warmth and comfort that you experienced in your grandparent’s house.
Conclusion
Flooring is more than just a surface; it’s an integral part of your home’s character and ambiance. It’s the foundation upon which you build memories, the backdrop to your life’s story.
Choosing the right engineered wood thickness is a crucial decision that can impact the durability, performance, and longevity of your floors.
Remember my grandparent’s house? Those floors weren’t just functional; they were a source of comfort and nostalgia. They were a reminder of family, tradition, and the enduring power of home.
As you embark on your flooring journey, I encourage you to reflect on your own experiences and the importance of thoughtful decision-making in home design.
Choose wisely, my friends. Choose the right thickness for your needs, and you’ll create living spaces that enhance your life for years to come.