Measure Hardwood Width? (4 Size Blunders!)

Avoid These 4 Size Blunders!

So, you’re thinking about installing hardwood floors? Awesome choice! Nothing beats the look and feel of real wood underfoot.

But hold on a sec! Before you start ripping up that old carpet, let’s talk about something super important: measuring hardwood width.

Trust me, getting this right can save you a ton of headaches (and money!) down the road. I’ve seen it all in my years as a flooring contractor.

I’m talking about gaps, uneven seams, and floors that just don’t look quite right. And guess what? Most of the time, it all boils down to measurement errors.

Think of it this way: if you find yourself with miscalculated hardwood measurements, one quick fix is to use a floor expansion gap to accommodate minor discrepancies.

But that’s like putting a band-aid on a bigger problem. It’s far better to get the measurements right from the get-go. So, let’s dive in and make sure you avoid these common mistakes.

The Basics of Hardwood

Width Measurement

Okay, let’s start with the basics. What exactly do I mean by “hardwood width?”

It’s simply the measurement of one plank from edge to edge. Seems simple enough, right?

But the width you choose has a big impact on the overall look and feel of your room.

Wider planks (think 5 inches or more) tend to make a space feel more open and modern. Narrower planks (like the classic 2 ¼ inches) can give a more traditional, formal vibe.

Here’s a quick rundown of common hardwood widths:

• 2 ¼ inches: Classic, traditional look. Often used in older homes.
• 3 inches: A versatile option that works well in many spaces.
• 4 inches: A good middle ground between narrow and wide planks.
• 5 inches and wider: Modern, spacious feel. Becoming increasingly popular.

So, what tools do you need to get accurate measurements?

• Tape Measure: Get a good quality one that’s easy to read.
• Square: Essential for making sure your measurements are perpendicular.
• Chalk Line: For marking straight lines across the wood.

These are the basics. I’ll cover more advanced tools later, but for now, let’s move on to the first big blunder.

Blunder #1 – Not Measuring

in Multiple Places

This is probably the most common mistake I see homeowners make. They grab a plank, measure the width in one spot, and assume that’s the width of the entire plank.

Big mistake!

Hardwood isn’t always perfectly uniform. Think about it: wood is a natural material. It can warp, twist, and change shape as it seasons.

Variations in humidity and temperature can also affect the wood’s dimensions. That means the width of a plank might be slightly different at one end than it is in the middle.

I’ve even seen planks that are slightly wider on one side than the other! So, how do you avoid this trap?

Here’s my step-by-step guide to measuring multiple points:

1. Grab a plank: Choose a few random planks from your shipment. Don’t just measure the top one!
2. Measure at each end: Use your tape measure to find the width at both ends of the plank.
3. Measure in the middle: Find the midpoint of the plank and measure the width there as well.
4. Record your measurements: Write down each measurement. Don’t try to keep them in your head!
5. Calculate the average: Add up all the measurements and divide by the number of measurements you took. This will give you the average width of the plank.

Example:

Let’s say you measure a plank and get the following measurements:

• End 1: 3.24 inches
• Middle: 3.26 inches
• End 2: 3.23 inches

To calculate the average width, you would add these numbers together (3.24 + 3.26 + 3.23 = 9.73) and then divide by 3 (9.73 / 3 = 3.243). So, the average width of this plank is approximately 3.24 inches.

By taking multiple measurements and calculating the average, you’ll get a much more accurate idea of the true width of your hardwood.

This will help you avoid those annoying gaps and uneven seams I mentioned earlier.

Blunder #2 – Ignoring

Okay, let’s talk about expansion gaps. These are small spaces left around the perimeter of your room during installation. They’re usually hidden by baseboards or trim.

So, why are they so important? Well, wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity and temperature.

Think about it: in the summer, when it’s hot and humid, the wood absorbs moisture from the air and expands.

In the winter, when it’s cold and dry, the wood loses moisture and contracts. If you don’t leave enough room for this natural movement, your floor can start to buckle, warp, or even crack. I’ve seen it happen!

• The width of your planks: Wider planks tend to expand and contract more than narrower planks.
• The type of wood: Some species of wood are more prone to expansion and contraction than others.
• The climate you live in: Areas with high humidity and extreme temperature changes will require larger expansion gaps.

So, how do you calculate the necessary gap?

Example:

Let’s say you’re installing hardwood in a room that’s 12 feet wide. To calculate the necessary expansion gap, you would divide 12 by 3 (12 / 3 = 4).

I know, it sounds like a lot, but trust me, it’s better to be safe than sorry. And remember, you can always cover the gap with baseboards or trim, so you won’t even see it.

Here’s a table with the recommended expansion gap:

Blunder #3 – Failing to Account

for Subfloor Thickness

The subfloor is the layer of material underneath your hardwood flooring. It’s usually made of plywood or OSB.

The thickness of your subfloor can affect the overall height of your finished floor. And if you don’t account for this, you could end up with some serious problems.

For example, if your new hardwood floor is thicker than your old flooring, you might have to adjust the height of your doors so they can still swing freely.

Or, if your new floor is thinner than your old flooring, you might have a gap between the floor and the baseboards.

Variations in subfloor material can also impact installation. For instance, if your subfloor is uneven, you’ll need to level it out before installing your hardwood. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a floor that’s bouncy and uneven.

So, how do you make sure your hardwood width measurement includes subfloor considerations?

Here’s a simple method:

1. Measure the thickness of your subfloor: Use a tape measure to find the thickness of your subfloor in several different places.
2. Measure the thickness of your hardwood: Use a tape measure to find the thickness of your hardwood planks.
3. Add the two measurements together: This will give you the total thickness of your finished floor.
4. Compare this measurement to the thickness of your old flooring: If there’s a significant difference, you’ll need to make adjustments to your doors, baseboards, or other fixtures.

Formula:

Total Finished Floor Thickness = Subfloor Thickness + Hardwood Thickness

Example:

Let’s say your subfloor is ¾ inch thick and your hardwood is ½ inch thick. To calculate the total thickness of your finished floor, you would add these numbers together (¾ + ½ = 1 ¼).

So, the total thickness of your finished floor would be 1 ¼ inches.

Blunder #4 – Overlooking the Finish

The finish on your hardwood can actually affect the overall width of the planks. I know, it sounds crazy, but it’s true!

When hardwood is finished, a layer of sealant is applied to the surface. This sealant can add a small amount of thickness to the wood, which can affect the overall width.

The difference between raw hardwood measurements and finished products can be subtle, but it’s important to be aware of it. Especially if you’re working with tight tolerances or trying to match existing flooring.

So, how do you account for the finish when measuring hardwood width?

The best way is to measure the wood both before and after finishing.

1. Measure the raw hardwood: Before you apply any finish, measure the width of the planks using the techniques I described earlier.
2. Apply the finish: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for applying the finish.
3. Measure the finished hardwood: Once the finish is dry, measure the width of the planks again.
4. Compare the two measurements: The difference between the two measurements will tell you how much the finish has affected the width of the wood.

Example:

Let’s say you measure a raw hardwood plank and find that it’s exactly 3 inches wide. Then, you apply a finish and measure the plank again. This time, you find that it’s 3.01 inches wide.

That means the finish has added 0.01 inches to the width of the plank. It may not seem like much, but it could make a difference in your project.

Tools and Techniques for

Accurate Measurement

Alright, let’s talk about some of the tools and techniques I use to get super-accurate measurements.

You already know about the basic tools: tape measure, square, and chalk line. But there are a few other gadgets that can come in handy.

• Laser Measure: These are great for measuring long distances quickly and accurately. Just point the laser at the wall and it will tell you the distance.
• Digital Caliper: These are perfect for measuring the thickness of your hardwood and subfloor with extreme precision.
• Contour Gauge: This tool is used to duplicate an irregular shape for fitting purposes.
• Moisture Meter: It is used to measure the moisture content of wood. Accurate readings help determine if wood has been properly dried, preventing issues like warping or cupping after installation.

Here are a few extra tips to help you avoid common measuring mistakes:

• Use a sharp pencil: When marking measurements, use a sharp pencil to create a thin, precise line.
• Double-check your measurements: Always double-check your measurements before cutting or installing anything.
• Don’t rush: Take your time and focus on getting accurate measurements.
• Get a second opinion: If you’re not sure about something, ask a friend or professional to take a look.

Conclusion

Okay, we’ve covered a lot of ground in this article. Let’s recap the key points:

• Measure in multiple places: Hardwood isn’t always uniform, so it’s important to measure the width of each plank at several different points.
• Account for the expansion gap: Wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity and temperature, so you need to leave enough room for this natural movement.
• Consider the subfloor thickness: The thickness of your subfloor can affect the overall height of your finished floor, so you need to account for this in your measurements.
• Don’t forget the finish: The finish on your hardwood can add a small amount of thickness to the wood, so you need to measure both before and after finishing.

I know, it can seem like a lot to remember. But trust me, taking the time to get accurate measurements will save you a ton of time, money, and frustration in the long run.

So, take your time, double-check your measurements, and don’t be afraid to ask for help if you need it. With a little bit of planning and attention to detail, you can install a beautiful hardwood floor that will last for years to come.

Happy flooring!

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