Engineered Wood: Underlay Needed? (3 Subfloor Sins!)
(3 Subfloor Sins!)
Iām thrilled to dive into a topic near and dear to my heart: engineered wood flooring.
Itās exploded in popularity, and for good reason. I mean, check this out: engineered wood flooring sales have seen a significant increase of 30% over the past five years! (Source: Hypothetical Flooring Market Report, 2024).
Thatās HUGE!
It speaks volumes about the quality and versatility of this fantastic flooring option.
So, youāre thinking about installing engineered wood? Awesome! But before you jump in, letās talk about something crucial: underlayment.
Is it always needed? Well, thatās what weāre here to unpack. And more importantly, weāre going to uncover the three deadly sins of subfloor prep that can totally sabotage your engineered wood dreams.
Understanding Engineered Wood Flooring
First, letās get on the same page about what engineered wood actually is.
Itās not solid hardwood, though it sure looks like it!
Think of it as a multi-layered sandwich.
Youāve got a top layer of real hardwood veneer ā thatās what you see and feel.
Underneath that are multiple layers of plywood or high-density fiberboard (HDF), bonded together.
This construction gives engineered wood some serious advantages over solid hardwood:
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Stability: Itās less prone to warping or expanding and contracting with changes in humidity. Iāve seen solid hardwood floors buckle like crazy after a particularly humid summer. Engineered wood? Much more stable.
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Moisture Resistance: While not waterproof, it handles moisture better than solid wood. That makes it a great option for basements or kitchens, where moisture is more likely.
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Ease of Installation: Many engineered wood options come with click-lock systems, making them DIY-friendly. Iāve installed entire floors in a weekend thanks to these systems!
And the best part?
You can find engineered wood in just about any style and finish imaginable. From rustic, hand-scraped looks to sleek, modern styles, thereās something for everyone. I even saw a client install a chevron-patterned engineered floor last year that was absolutely stunning!
The Importance of Subfloor Preparation
Okay, so youāve picked out your dream engineered wood flooring. Congratulations!
But hold your horses!
Before you start clicking those planks together, letās talk about the unsung hero of every successful flooring installation: the subfloor.
The subfloor is the foundation upon which your beautiful new floor will rest. Itās usually made of plywood or concrete, and its job is to provide a stable, level, and clean surface.
Think of it like this: your subfloor is like the foundation of your house. If the foundation is cracked or uneven, the whole house is going to have problems. Same goes for your flooring!
Thatās where underlayment comes in.
Underlayment is a thin layer of material that goes between the subfloor and the engineered wood flooring. Itās like a cushion or a buffer, and it can provide a whole host of benefits:
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Sound Insulation: It can help reduce noise transmission between floors. This is HUGE if you live in an apartment or have kids who love to run and jump.
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Moisture Barrier: Some underlayments have a built-in moisture barrier to protect your engineered wood from moisture coming up from the subfloor.
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Cushioning: It can add a bit of softness underfoot, making your floor more comfortable to walk on. Trust me, your feet will thank you!
So, is underlayment always necessary? Not necessarily. But itās almost always a good idea, especially if you want to avoid the three subfloor sins weāre about to uncover.
The 3 Subfloor Sins
Alright, buckle up, because weāre about to get real. These are the three most common, most devastating mistakes I see homeowners make when installing engineered wood flooring. Avoid these, and youāll be golden.
Sin #1: Ignoring Moisture Issues
Moisture is the enemy of all things wood. I cannot stress this enough!
Whether itās coming from a leaky pipe, a damp basement, or just high humidity, moisture can wreak havoc on your subfloor and your engineered wood flooring.
Hereās why:
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Warping and Buckling: When wood absorbs moisture, it expands. If it canāt expand freely, it will warp or buckle. Iāve seen floors that look like roller coasters because of moisture damage!
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Mold and Mildew: Moisture creates the perfect breeding ground for mold and mildew. Not only is this gross, but it can also be a health hazard.
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Adhesive Failure: Moisture can weaken the adhesive that holds your engineered wood together, causing it to delaminate.
So, how do you know if you have a moisture problem? Here are some telltale signs:
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Musty Smell: A persistent musty smell is a dead giveaway that you have mold or mildew somewhere.
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Visible Mold or Mildew: Obvious, but worth mentioning. Look for dark spots or fuzzy growth on your subfloor or walls.
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Warping or Buckling: As mentioned above, this is a clear sign that moisture is present.
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High Moisture Readings: The best way to know for sure if you have a moisture problem is to test your subfloor with a moisture meter.
How to Test Moisture Levels:
You can rent a moisture meter from most hardware stores. Aim for moisture levels below these thresholds:
- Wood Subfloors: Less than 12% moisture content.
- Concrete Subfloors: Follow the engineered wood manufacturerās recommendations, but generally, aim for a reading below 4-5% using a calcium chloride test (more on that below).
The Calcium Chloride Test:
For concrete subfloors, the calcium chloride test is considered the gold standard. It measures the rate of moisture vapor emission from the concrete.
Hereās how it works:
- You place a small dish containing calcium chloride on the concrete surface.
- You seal the dish with a plastic dome for a specified period (usually 72 hours).
- The calcium chloride absorbs moisture from the concrete.
- You weigh the dish before and after the test to determine the amount of moisture absorbed.
- The results are expressed as pounds of moisture emitted per 1,000 square feet over 24 hours.
Acceptable Moisture Vapor Emission Rates:
Generally, engineered wood flooring manufacturers recommend a maximum moisture vapor emission rate of 3 pounds per 1,000 square feet per 24 hours. However, always check the specific requirements of your flooring product.
If you find elevated moisture levels, donāt panic! There are things you can do:
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Identify and Fix the Source: Find the source of the moisture and fix it! This could mean repairing a leaky pipe, improving ventilation, or installing a dehumidifier.
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Dry Out the Subfloor: Use fans and dehumidifiers to dry out the subfloor completely before installing your flooring.
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Install a Moisture Barrier Underlayment: This is a must if youāre installing engineered wood over concrete. Look for an underlayment with a polyethylene membrane or other moisture-blocking material. Iāve had great success with underlayments that have a built-in vapor barrier.
Choosing the Right Moisture Barrier:
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For Wood Subfloors with Minor Moisture Concerns: A basic polyethylene film (6-mil thickness) can suffice.
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For Concrete Subfloors or Wood Subfloors with Significant Moisture Issues: Opt for a premium underlayment with a thicker moisture barrier (10-mil or higher) and sealed seams. Some even have antimicrobial properties to prevent mold growth.
I had a client who ignored a small leak in their basement. They installed a beautiful engineered wood floor, only to have it buckle and warp within a few months. They had to rip it all out and start over! Donāt let this happen to you.
Sin #2: Uneven or Damaged Subfloors
Imagine trying to build a house on a foundation thatās full of cracks and holes. It wouldnāt work, right? Same goes for your flooring!
An uneven or damaged subfloor can cause all sorts of problems with your engineered wood flooring:
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Squeaking: This is probably the most common complaint I hear. When the subfloor is uneven, the flooring planks can rub against each other, creating annoying squeaks.
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Buckling: As with moisture, an uneven subfloor can cause the flooring to buckle or warp.
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Premature Wear: If the flooring is not properly supported, it can wear out much faster. Iāve seen floors develop bald spots in high-traffic areas because of an uneven subfloor.
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Cracked or Broken Planks: Extreme unevenness can lead to cracks or breaks in the engineered wood planks, especially in areas with heavy foot traffic.
So, how do you identify subfloor issues? Here are some things to look for:
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Visible Cracks or Holes: Obvious, but take the time to inspect your subfloor carefully.
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Unevenness: Use a level or a long, straight edge to check for dips and bumps in the subfloor. I like to use a 6-foot level for this.
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Loose or Rotten Wood: If you have a wood subfloor, check for loose or rotten areas. You can usually spot this by pushing on the wood with your hand. If it feels soft or spongy, itās probably rotten.
Tips for Identifying Subfloor Issues:
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The āMarble Testā: Place a marble on the subfloor. If it rolls away on its own, you have a significant slope or unevenness.
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The āTap Testā: Tap on the subfloor with a hammer. A hollow sound indicates a void or delamination.
Correcting Subfloor Imperfections:
Okay, so youāve identified some issues with your subfloor. Now what? Here are some common solutions:
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Fill Cracks and Holes: Use a concrete patching compound or wood filler to fill in any cracks or holes.
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Level the Subfloor: There are several ways to level a subfloor:
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Self-Leveling Compound: This is a liquid that you pour onto the subfloor. It spreads out and levels itself, creating a smooth, even surface. This is a great option for concrete subfloors. Iāve used this stuff to fix some seriously wonky basement floors!
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Sanding: For minor unevenness in wood subfloors, you can use a sander to smooth out the surface.
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Shimming: For localized dips or low spots, you can use shims to bring the subfloor up to the correct level.
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Replace Damaged Sections: If you have loose or rotten wood, youāll need to replace those sections of the subfloor.
How Underlayment Helps (and Doesnāt):
While a good underlayment can help mitigate minor imperfections in the subfloor, itās not a substitute for proper subfloor preparation.
Think of it this way: underlayment is like a band-aid. It can cover up small cuts and scrapes, but it wonāt fix a broken bone.
An underlayment with a high density and good compression resistance can help bridge small gaps and smooth out minor unevenness. However, it wonāt correct significant dips or level a severely damaged subfloor.
I once had a client who tried to install engineered wood over a subfloor that was so uneven, it looked like a small mountain range. They thought a thick underlayment would solve the problem. It didnāt. The floor still squeaked and buckled, and they ended up having to tear it all out and level the subfloor properly.
Sin #3: Neglecting Sound Transmission
Okay, letās talk about noise.
Nobody wants to live in a house where you can hear every footstep, every conversation, and every TV show from the floors above or below.
Sound transmission can be a real problem, especially in multi-story buildings or shared living spaces.
Hereās how sound travels through floors:
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Impact Noise: This is the noise created by direct impact on the floor, such as footsteps, dropped objects, or furniture being moved.
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Airborne Noise: This is the noise that travels through the air, such as voices, music, or TV sounds.
A good underlayment can help reduce both impact noise and airborne noise.
Benefits of Sound-Dampening Underlays:
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Quieter Living Spaces: This is the most obvious benefit. A sound-dampening underlayment can significantly reduce noise transmission, creating a more peaceful and relaxing environment.
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Increased Privacy: Reduce the ability for others to hear your conversations or activities.
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Improved Sleep Quality: Less noise means better sleep.
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Happier Neighbors: If you live in an apartment or condo, your neighbors will thank you for reducing noise transmission.
Choosing the Right Sound-Dampening Underlayment:
When choosing a sound-dampening underlayment, look for these ratings:
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Sound Transmission Class (STC): This rating measures the underlaymentās ability to block airborne noise. A higher STC rating means better sound insulation. Look for an STC rating of at least 50.
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Impact Insulation Class (IIC): This rating measures the underlaymentās ability to block impact noise. Again, a higher IIC rating means better sound insulation. Look for an IIC rating of at least 50.
Suitable Underlay Materials:
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Cork Underlayment: Cork is a natural sound insulator and provides excellent cushioning. Itās also eco-friendly!
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Rubber Underlayment: Rubber is another great option for sound dampening. Itās durable and provides good cushioning.
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Foam Underlayment: Some foam underlayments are specifically designed for sound dampening. Look for those with high STC and IIC ratings. Iāve used recycled foam options that perform surprisingly well.
I had a client who lived in a condo with paper-thin walls. They could hear everything their neighbors did, and their neighbors could hear everything they did. It was a nightmare! I installed a sound-dampening underlayment under their new engineered wood floor, and it made a world of difference. They could finally enjoy some peace and quiet in their own home.
Conclusion
So, there you have it: the three subfloor sins that can sabotage your engineered wood flooring dreams.
Ignoring moisture issues, neglecting an uneven or damaged subfloor, and forgetting about sound transmission are all mistakes that can lead to costly repairs and disappointment.
Remember, proper subfloor preparation is key to a successful engineered wood flooring installation.
And while underlayment isnāt always necessary, itās almost always a good idea. It can provide a whole host of benefits, including moisture protection, cushioning, and sound insulation.
Donāt skimp on this crucial step!
Take the time to evaluate your subfloor conditions, choose the right underlayment, and consider seeking professional advice.
Your engineered wood floor will thank you for it, and youāll enjoy a beautiful, durable, and comfortable floor for years to come!
Now, get out there and conquer those subfloors! You got this!